- #1
I have been having issues with my temp creeping up with the air happening. It is genuinely only occurring in traffic in townsfolk. Outside air temperatures have been around 90F degrees with high humidness.
I cause an ultra gauge (which I ask to change the interpretation from celsius) and the engine temp has been getting ahead to 100 to 102C (212 to 215F). I wasn't sure if the clutch fan was coming on, but I'm was nearly sensationalism I would get a line it if it was. I have sex the devotee can come out because it runs for well-nig a minute at startup apiece morning and its clearly noticeable. One time I turn the air off and keep apart moving the temp will drop to normal roughly 95 - 98C. I do be intimate the thermostat was functioning just fine during the winter accordant to the ultra gauge.
Most of the info I give birth read suggests the clutch fans are likely to mire connected so I'm a trifle confused. Is it possible for the clutch fan to not be approaching on when it is supposed to? Or am I wrong on when it should go on? I'm forward I will just now be replacing the clutch buff in the near future.
Thanks for any help guys.
- #4
Troubleshoot it electrically before changing the clutch. Front fuse #20, relay #45.
- #5
Check out the link Mooseman posted. I started that thread because I was having the same mathematical issues.
My thermoregulator's non rightfulness because it girdle 1 click below 210 which isn't normal but it does use. I don't want to replace it at the second though.
Ane way you can test your fan clutch is to put together on a heavy glove and or use a heavy irritate to render and physically intercept the fan clutch. If you are capable to hold on it so that mean's it is not lockup properly which means it is no good.
I've yet to substitute my winnow clutch but to attain sure I need to further consider what's expiration to happen since I harbor't been dynamic a good deal lately, and temps are cooler.
- #6
Niklaus said:
Just a note: This works only if you're already above 210 and the PCM is calling for the fan to be affianced. Mostly if you'atomic number 75 not already overheating, the buff clutch will be disengaged and spinning weakly solitary via residual bearing and clutch rubbing. The only way to effect the clutch to betroth for a test if it's not already hot (without having a Tech Deuce or early high end $$$ CAT scan tool) is to remove the relay and jump 12V straight to the devotee clutch control input.
- #10
The_Roadie said:
Troubleshoot it electrically before changing the clutch. Front fuzee #20, electrical relay #45.
Wiring diagrams causa me to take up massive mastermind farts. I will attempt to understand this though, but it may take a while.
Niklaus same:
Check out the link Mooseman posted. I started that draw because I was having the same exact issues.
My thermostat's non right because it corset 1 tick below 210 which isn't normal but it does function. I don't wish to replace it at the moment though.
One way you can test your fan clutch pedal is to set on a heavy glove and or manipulation a heavy rag to attempt and physically stop the fan clutch. If you are able to point information technology then that beggarly's it is not locking properly which means it is no good.
I've yet to replace my fan hold tight but to make sure I pauperization to further construe what's loss to happen since I oasis't been driving a lot lately, and temps are cooler.
I know the clutch fan is capable of running since it does at startup, but from my reading it does that due to the valve being misaligned so I don't think the PCM commands it at startup. My temp gauge stays around a half tick to the rightfulness of 210. I thought my thermo might be bad, but the ultra standard of measurement was version 195 - 200F in the winter so I believe my thermo is good.
The_Roadie said:
I wasn't sure at what temp the PCM calls for the fan. I've clearly broken 210 according to my temporary worker gauge and immoderate gauge reading from the ECT sensor.
Sparky aforementioned:
I wouldn't be worried about 215F since that is only just a hardly a degrees supra the 210F. Doesn't seem to be near enough to worry about to me
Its non that 215 is that high, but if I don't pay up attention I veneration it could run higher. It leave likely get hotter this summertime so I could see it as a potential bigger exit.
- #11
Rightful for information the intended shows the stock fan settings. The ETC and AC tables are an Operating theater stipulate whichever occurs first starts the fan and the highest percentage betwixt the 2 tables is used. . Note the Atomic number 89 entirely starts fan at 160 psi , that unremarkably means it's supra 75* F extramural temp for the AC to hit that pressure. The ac may not run the fan on cooler days. The percentage (%) numbers in the tables are heartbeat width to the clutch relay, EG. a per centum entry of 6 at 160 lbs in the AC table says the clutch electrical relay will be picked 6% of the time Oregon nearly 3.6 seconds tabu of apiece infinitesimal. Or at 210*F coolant temp in the ETC table says the hold close will be picked 7% of the time.
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- #12
Interesting stuff bobdec. Drive home today I collision 210F for a brief menses of meter, fan didn't surface. Outdoorsy temp of 85F. I'm not really having an issue yet, but if we start seeing temps of 100F this summer, I can just picture having to turn the heat on while sitting in traffic.
- #14
KNBlazer said:
It spins fine at idle. It engages at most startups, it just isn't advent on when I go over 210F. I had a clutch fan connected my 2 previous vehicles and ne'er had these issues. This one is foreign to me with its PCM control. I would update to the 2008 ones, only I am not ready to get a PCM flash yet and I don't want to hold up with the chip engine light.
- #16
I guess perchance I was used to the clutch fan in my S10. It could be foretold to come on any time the temp gauge went over 210.
I don't give birth access to a tech 2 unless I attend a betray and IT doesn't speech sound like I have a bad enough issue to worry about it.
- #17
To add to post #13, I secondhand a impenetrable duty leather glove and did some experimenting a patc back expected to a P0483 (PCM was addlepated over ETC and Alternating current control, and I got that resolved with a line).
Testing ...requires a opportune glove and overcoming the fear of grabbing a spinning fan... With atomic number 89 off starting the cold engine the fan ran at a faster speed for about 15 surgery so seconds after bulge out, seemed to waver on/off a couple on of multiplication. I believe that was due to cold fluid in the clutch that clears after running play. Later thought it could be PCM testing the circuitry, in either case not significant, and I did not follow out. Let that high speed simmer down before proceeding w/test.
Eastern Samoa expressed previously when idleness the disposable in the clutch will keep it spinning even when non commanded along. This carefree upshot was enough to really keep the coolant temp in range, a click below 210, when the outside temporary was about 65*F. Make sure your does that . At that time I could stop it easily with the glove.
I then held the winnow obstructed money box the temp got up above 210* F. I and so could feel the clutch activation was there as a slight pulse or surge from the fan, but it could still be easily be held stopped. Atomic number 3 I continuing holding the fan the engine got hotter and I could feel the fan surge increasing as I assume the clutch engagement pulse percentage was increasing. Not wanting to get it overly hottish, I relinquish and the sports fan sped up significantly. The glove only smoked when trying to stop it at that speed. Throughout the testing IT's evident that thither is quite a bit of hold up and slush in the fan clutch fluid design, it speeds up lento after commanded along and slows down slowly. Simply once it speeds up it gains a great deal of impulse.
Truck Fan Cluch Cause Ac to Not Work When Gets Hot
Source: https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/engine-running-hot-clutch-fan-not-engaging.11214/